Two-and-a-Half Anchorages Near Espíritu Santo
Isla Espíritu Santo
If you cruise Pacific Panama, chances are you already know Las Perlas. Chances are, too, that your favorite anchorage is Isla Espíritu Santo.
It‘s separated from the east coast of Isla del Rey by a channel. North winds curve around the island, down the channel, to keep you cool. Good holding in sand lets you enjoy the calm and breeze.
Before the pandemic it could get crowded; these days, it’s a great spot to isolate.
You can’t beat Espíritu Santo for outdoor life: snorkeling, diving, swimming, kayaking, beach walks, bird life, and dinghy exploration.
San Miguél, Isla Víveros, and Punta Matadero offer options enroute to a favorite Las Perlas anchorage.
There’s no sign of cell service or provisions, but they’re closer than you think. A half-day trip lets you restock provisions, catch up on the news, or seek more isolation.
Here are 2½ ways to extend your stay in a perfect anchorage.
½. Food and Phone Run to San Miguél
There are two reasons to leave Espíritu Santo. Running out of drinks and food is one; the other is connection with the world.
The village of San Miguél, an hour away, can hook you up.
Looking south to San Miguél and Isla Adentro (right) .
Why San Miguél?
• Largest town in Las Perlas
• Fresh produce and fuel
• Medical care, Coast Guard, and airport
• Ferry to Contadora
Looking north across small boat anchorage.
Where is San Miguél?
• Center north coast Isla del Rey
• Seven miles from Espíritu Santo
• Day anchorage, mid-rising tide
Why Does San Miguél Only Count as Half an Anchorage?
San Miguél makes a great day stop to restock produce and beer, check email, and stretch your legs.
Overnight? Not so much.
At least, not in the dry season, when brisk, late-afternoon north winds kick up a nasty chop. Add that to a shallow lee shore with marginal holding and it’s a drag.
Fortunately, there’s better shelter right next door.
San Miguél approach (looking ESE) from Isla Víveros or Víveros channel.
1. Spend the Night At Isla Víveros
Three miles west of San Miguél, Isla Víveros has brand-new breakwater. Anchoring behind it provides good protection from chop while you wait for tide or better light or make a snorkeling expedition
Pre-breakwater cruising guides depict much of the area as two meters deep, but we found seven meters, shallowing to three or four, then two. Perhaps it was dredged to build the breakwater.
Mara’naa Beach Resort is supposed to eventually have a marina with ten slips and a diesel dock. We didn’t see them but heavy equipment was in plain view.
Why Isla Víveros?
Isla Víveros is billed as a “private island,” meaning owned by a development company.
We‘re so over private islands. After Pearl Island Resort, going ashore doesn’t even tempt me.
Whether or not Isla Víveros welcomes cruisers, cell coverage and anchoring are still free.
Then you can sail back to Espíritu Santo, an even better private island.
Shelter from the chop while you catch up on news.
Wait for high tide to take the Víveros Channel to the western Perlas….
… or low tide to snorkel nearby reefs.
Las Caracoles, a popular snorkeling spot, lies two miles NE of Víveros breakwater.
Where is Isla Víveros anchorage?
• Southeast side of Isla Víveros
• Three miles west of San Miguél
• Less than a mile northwest of the Viveros Channel
• Ten miles east of Isla Pedro González
Depths shown in feet.
Isla Víveros breakwater (left), reef, and northern beach.
2. Go Solo On Punta Matadero
When Espíritu Santo is crowded or you’d like a change of scene, another well-protected anchorage lies one mile north at Punta Matadero. Its gently sloping beach is full of surprises.
Two large rocks guard the head of the channel. What looks daunting on charts is magical to explore at low tide.
Punta Matadero offers great shelter only minutes from Espíritu Santo.
Why Punta Matadero?
• Excellent shelter
• Fresh water
• Beach walks
• Tidepools, rocks and shells
• Solitude
Punta Matadero
Where is Punta Matadero?
• Seven miles from San Miguél
• Opposite Isla San Pedro
• One mile N of Espíritu Santo Channel anchorage
Punta Matadero anchorage.
Freshwater stream on west side of anchorage.
Pelican heaven.
Fishing boat takes on water.
A trail at east end of the beach leads to a second, north-facing beach. . . .
. . . complete with surprises.
Looking south to Espíritu Santo from Punta Matadero.
May you spend a couple of days in a perfect anchorage soon.
Fair winds,
Christine
Do Tell!
Where’s your favorite anchorage, fictional or real?
