


A Short Trip To Peru, Part 9—Seriously?
By 12,000 feet, the advertised headache arrives like a bullet train inside the tunnel of my brain. My face is squashed against the window’s ventilation crack, taking in fresh air that's just as thin.


The Long Way Back–A Short Trip To Peru, Part 7
I’ve slowed enough to feel rooted in present. I’m so zen I barely notice I’ve been listening to the same Bon Jovi cassette for four hours.
Should I attribute that to Kambô?

The Kambô Frog and I—A Short Trip To Peru, Part 6
The frog, she says, will enter and scan the body, zero in on toxins, seek and destroy pockets of them. Its entry route involves removing a top layer of skin by means of pencil tip-sized burns, then applying the secretions.

Evacuate!–A Short Trip To Peru, Part 5
Evacuation, it turns out, is more complicated than buying a ticket and calling a taxi.

A First Mate, Lost—Barb’s Way
Barb was my badass first mate, the person who made me a better captain.

A Short Trip To Peru, Part 4
There must be better ways to make friends than to sob for three weeks, then get sick enough to need medical help.

A Short Trip To Peru, Part 3
What if we don’t get back at all? I’m too depressed to think about it, much less plan. Climbing the stairs is too much planning. Everything is too much.

A Short Trip To Peru, Part 2
Stephan calculates our odds if we get sick. Once the area has 120 cases, he notes quietly, the hospital may not be an option.


Vacuna Matata: The Trip Home
If I had run across someone who tested positive, would I self-report? Step out of line? Give up my privilege once to keep a stranger safe?


Two-and-a-Half Anchorages Near Espíritu Santo
There’s no sign of cell service or provisions, but they’re closer than you think. A half-day trip lets you restock provisions, catch up on the news, or seek more isolation.

No Shirt, No Shoes, But We Have Service: Navigating By Cell Tower in Las Perlas
Sometimes, ya gotta Zoom.

Crocodiles
Departure from a known world brings surprise. It can mean danger.
Sometimes, a known world of our own construction is the threat, when what I took for truth turns out to be wrong.



Cruising In the Time Of Covid
How can we plan in this pandemic? How can we not plan?
Cruising boats have three broad options: shorten sail and change course; heave to; or abandon ship.