The Long Way Back–A Short Trip To Peru, Part 7
I’ve slowed enough to feel rooted in present. I’m so zen I barely notice I’ve been listening to the same Bon Jovi cassette for four hours.
Should I attribute that to Kambô?
The Kambô Frog and I—A Short Trip To Peru, Part 6
The frog, she says, will enter and scan the body, zero in on toxins, seek and destroy pockets of them. Its entry route involves removing a top layer of skin by means of pencil tip-sized burns, then applying the secretions.
Evacuate!–A Short Trip To Peru, Part 5
Evacuation, it turns out, is more complicated than buying a ticket and calling a taxi.
A Short Trip To Peru, Part 4
There must be better ways to make friends than to sob for three weeks, then get sick enough to need medical help.
A Short Trip To Peru, Part 3
What if we don’t get back at all? I’m too depressed to think about it, much less plan. Climbing the stairs is too much planning. Everything is too much.
Vacuna Matata: The Trip Home
If I had run across someone who tested positive, would I self-report? Step out of line? Give up my privilege once to keep a stranger safe?
Two-and-a-Half Anchorages Near Espíritu Santo
There’s no sign of cell service or provisions, but they’re closer than you think. A half-day trip lets you restock provisions, catch up on the news, or seek more isolation.
If You Give a Mouse a Cookie, He Will Break the Oven: Espiritu Santo
This is how cruising goes. One minute you’re swimming in a perfect anchorage; the next, you’re clutching your abandon ship bag.
Who's a Liar, Who's a Thief? Part II
It’s so much easier to name when you’re an outsider. You have no power, no responsibility to change.
11 Reasons For A Dinghy Ride: San Miguel, Isla del Rey
Sometimes you need incentive to get off the boat.
Haulout 102: Life On the Hard
Seriously, why did we haul the boat?
Oh, yeah.
Clean. Paint.
I repeat it like a mantra, trying to get into it. Maintain.
The Art of Stealing Your Own Boat, Conclusion: Pandemic Panama
As long as you arrive legally, nobody cares how you left the last place.
New Year’s Eve in Ecuador: The Widows
Tick-or-treating for beer money, an Ecuadorean tradition.
The Art of Stealing Your Own Boat
Our objective is a 53-foot sailboat anchored in plain view of the Port Captain’s third-floor window that could be impounded any minute. The vehicle’s owner–and captain, as it happens–is me.
The Best Christmas Pageant Ever: Pase del Niño Viajero
On December 24, families and folk dancers from all over Ecuador gather in Cuenca to celebrate the arrival of a special child.